Citadel Wood Painting Guide - Part Two

After the parts had been removed from the sprue and cleaned, they were put together and I used Green Stuff to fill the gaps. Once this had dried hard I undercoated everything in Chaos Black - any missing parts were painted over afterwards.

Not all paints used are Games Workshop.

Base:

1 - A heavy brushing of Scorched Brown to all of the base
2 - A heavy brushing of Dark Grey (Vallejo 70994) to stones and slates
3 - Highlight everything other than stones with Dark Earth (Revell 82)
4 - Highlight Dark Earth with Olive Brown (Revell 86)
5 - Highlight Olive Brown with Light Olive (Revell 45)
6 - Hightlight stones drybrushing with Basalt Grey (Vallejo 70869) and a lighter highlight with Light Grey (Revell 76) finish with a very dry highlight of Skull White.
7 - Add Flock to areas. In this case I wanted lots of ground to show.
8 - Any dropped wood was left Schorched brown and had a highlight of Dark Earth (Revell 82) and Medium Fleshtone (Vallejo 70860)

Tree Trunks/Branches:

1 - Undercoated Chaos Black
2 - Heavy dry brush of Scorched Brown
3 - Highlight of Dark Earth (Revell 82)
4 - Very dry brushing of Medium Fleshtone (Vallejo 70860)
5 - Stones and boulders had a brushing of Dark Grey (Vallejo 70994), highlight Basalt Grey and Light Grey with very fine Skull white for final highlight.
6 - Flock added to match base.

Citadel Wood Painting Guide - Part one - Look in the Box

Just arrived for Christmas.
Have a look at the sprue...



Once the parts had been removed and cleaned up, which wasn't much to be honest theyw ere glued together and all gaps filled with green stuff, ready for undercoating with choas black.

Haradrim Raiders

Painting Guide for Raider



For these I wanted a uniformed look, so went for the same colur scheme throughout i.e all have re turben, all have purple cloak.



Undercoat: Chaos Black

First coat;
Eyes: paint in eyes using skull white.
Flesh: Drawf flesh
Cloak: Liche Purple
Turben/Pants: Scab Red
Gaiters and arm bands: Graveyard Earth
Armour: Burnished gold with Ultramarine Blue
Bows/Wood: Scorched brown
Bones: Scorched brown with Bleached Bone highlight



Second coats;
Highlight Scab red with Blood red.
Wash cloaks with Leviathan Purple
Wash Reds with Baal Red
Highlight rope with bleached bone
Flesh wash with Ogryn Flesh



Once all dry wash with Badab Black all over.
Varnish and mount on horses.

Christmas list

Ruins of Osgiliath
Citadel Wood
LOTR Terrain Pack

Mordor Orc Drummer
Mordor Orc Task Master

Orc Shaman

Gollum, Sam and Frodo

Mordor Army - Orc Warband

This will be the basis for my 1000 pts Mordor Army:

Morannon Orc Captain - 50 pts
Morannon Banner Bearer - 35 pts
*Modor Orc Drummer - 15 pts
Morannon Shaman - 100 pts
*Mordor Orc Task Master - 25pts
War Riders - 20 points per company - x3 (60pts)
Morannon Orcs - 20pts per company x3 (60pts)
Mordor Ocs - 15 pts x3 (60pts)
Troll drummer - 150 pts
*Troll - 100 pts

Total pts so far = 655 pts

Still decisions on what else I need to be made - I will update this asap.

Not your usual miniatures....

This is an unusual project, it's a 1/12 scale model of a basement that will eventually form part of a house.
This should really be Jackie's project but she has had it 12 months now and it's still in the box.
So I thought I would start it and see if that generated the right interest :o). It has she is very excited now.

The material is MDF so once primed I used B&Q Warm Blue instead of the eggshell blue it advised, I think it is a much richer blue in my opinion. The doors and windows will be white. It has had 2-3 coats of blue and once together I will spray varnish it with Games Worskshop matt Varnish. So still away to go but I will keep you informed.

War of the Ring Rule Book

I received this a couple of weeks ago, I wanted to see what it was all about. Usually I don't game these figures just paint them but I thought I would have a go and see what it was all about.

problme is now - what army? I have the beginnings of a couple, Mordor, Rohan and Gondor.

Initial thoughts are it looks good but could be very expensive buying all the figures.

Riders of Rohan Painting Guide

Men

Always water down your paint.

Undercoat: Chaos Black

First Coats

Flesh: Dwarf Flesh
Hair: Scorched Brown
Belts/Leather: Scorched Brown
Chainmail: Boltgun Metal
Cloak: Military Green (V)
Trousers: Catachan Green
Shirt: Bestial Brown
Bow: Scorched Brown
Feathers: Bleached Bone
Helmet: Silver / Shining Gold
Blanket: Graveyard Earth

Second Coat

Flesh: Elf Flesh
Hair: Bestial Brown Highlight
Belts/Leather: Leather Brown
Chainmail: Methril Silver

Wash

Flesh: Ogryn Flesh
Cloak: Thraka Green
All other parts: Badab Black

Varnish

Medium Matte (V540)

Ruins of Osgiliath

One for the Christmas list

The Hobbit

Green light for "The Hobbit"

http://movies.yahoo.com/feature/wrap-hobbit-greenlight.html

Victrix 54mm Update

Released by Victrix 15th Oct

"We are currently a week or two away from getting test shots of the Chasseurs and 54mm test shots should be following a few weeks after that. We think mid November will be a realistic release time for the Chasseurs and late November for the 54mm".

Full press release http://www.victrixlimited.com/news-74-15th-October-Progress-report-on-future-releases

Fingers crossed!!!!

Victrix

It's been a while and to be honest I haven't done anything, nothing has progressed. I've been working hard and it hasn't left much time for anything.

I have half been expecting some movement at Victrix, I sent a mail months ago asking when the next release of 54mm would be and they said May 2010. It's now October and still nothing.

Then maybe some pictures may be available in Sept, still nothing;


"We had some very good news today from the company that does our tooling.

They are well underway on the 54mm French sets. These will be French Grenadiers 1804 to 1812 and French Voltigeurs 1804 to 1812. Each set will contain 16 figures with plenty of arm and head options.

No images to show at present but hope to have more to show in September. We would hope for a late September or early October release. We will keep you informed when we have more news".

Well at least I will now have something to match up against the British 54mm they released last year.

New Arrivals

Looking forward to building and painting these guys.

Arms on or Off

I usually put the arms on first and then paint however on these Victrix 54mm it's difficult to paint the jackets properly.

I'm going to try on the next batch leaving the arms off those that are affected and see how that works.

I'll post some pictures etc

Painting Guide: 54mm British Pt2

After undercoating Dark grey I decided to return them all to Black. I used Vallejo Black instead of Chaos Black (GW).

In painting order;

• Jackets: Base coat Scab Red (GW), 1st highlight RED (V), 2nd highlight Bermellon Red (V), 3rd Highlight Blood Red (GW)



• Cuffs: Base coat Deep yellow (V), 1st highlight Lemon Yellow (V)



• Musket: Scorched Brown (GW), Strap White (V), Bayonet Bolt Gun Metal (GW) with Mithril Silver highlight (GW), end Wood Brown (R)



• Lapels/Strapping: White



• Trousers: Base Dark Grey (V), 1st highlight Med grey, wash with Badab Black, 3rd highlight Light Grey



• Belts: Scorched Brown (GW) with Snakebite Leather (GW) highlight.



• Gold: Shining Gold (GW), 1st highlight Gold (V)



• Plume: Deep Green (V), highlight Leaf Green (R)

Rucksack: Base Scorched Brown (GW), Mat Shadow Grey (GW) with light grey highlight, straps white (V) and light Grey bag.

Acrylic Paint Removal

A link about removing paint from plastic figures;

http://stason.org/TULARC/crafts/miniatures-painting/6-How-do-I-strip-paint-Miniatures-Painting.html

I will be trying a pine disinfectant from my local store. I will add a review later.

Painting Guide: 1/16 Netherlands Musketeer P2

Paints Used: Vallejo, Games Workshop

Flat Blue (V)
Scab red (GW)
White (V)
Red (V)
Royal Blue (V)
med Skin (V)
Basic Skin (V)
Ogryn Flesh Wash
Asurmen Blue Wash
Badab Black Wash
Scorched Brown (GW)

All Paint should be watered down.
Undercoat: Black (V) (not as good as Chaos Black IMO)

Eyes: White in the eyes and patch up with Black to get the correct shape.
Flesh: Medium Skintone heavy. Basic Skintone drybrush
Hair/Beard: Scorched Brown
Collar/cuffs: White layer to a good white coat
Tunic: Arms - Flat blue with royal Blue highlights, Asurmen Blue wash in crevases.

Workbench

Another visit to the model shop, I didn't know what a Burgundian Knight was but I liked the picture on the box and I have a slight interest in Crusades, Templar and Tuetonic Knights so I thought I may as well get a model :o).

After a bit of research I have found the following French historical tale about a Burgundian Knight "THE CAREER OF A KNIGHT-ERRANT" by Charles Morris.

Here is a quick extract;

Such a knight was Jacques de Lelaing, "the good knight without fear and without doubt," as his chroniclers entitle him, a Burgundian by birth, born in the château of Lelaing early in the fifteenth century. Jacques was well brought up for a knight. Literature was cultivated in Burgundy in those days, and the boy was taught the arts of reading and writing, the accomplishments of French and Latin, and in his later life he employed the pen as well as the sword, and did literary work of which specimens still survive.
In warlike sports he excelled. He was still but a youth when the nephew of Philip the Good of Burgundy (Philip the Bad would have hit the mark more nearly) carried him off to his uncle's court to graduate in knighthood. The young adventurer sought the court of Philip well equipped for his new duties, his father, William de Lelaing, having furnished him with four fine horses, a skilful groom, and a no less skilful valet; and also with some good advice, to the effect that, "Inasmuch as you are more noble than others by birth, so should you be more noble than they by virtues," adding that, "few great men have gained renown for prowess and virtue who did not entertain love for some dame or damoiselle."

READ MORE > Charles Morris

Painting Guide 1/16 French Cuirassier Pt 4

Painting Guide 1/16 French Cuirassier Part 3

Almost there now,

Helmet finished last night.

Paints:

Shining Gold GW, Boltgun Metal GW, Mithril Silver GW, badab Black wash, Red V.

Next task is to base the model. I will put the finished picture in the Gallery.

Painting Guide: 1/16 Netherlands Musketeer P1

One of my next projects is a Mini Art 1/16 model. Similar to the French Cuirassier, I enjoyed that project.
The model is very detailed and comes with its own Base.

I'll see how this model compares to the French one for fitting, I had to use a bit of green stuff on that one.

Horse Reins

The MiniArt kit did not provide any reins for the horse. After some investigation I have found out that you can use Lead Foil. The next problem was finding this lead foil as nowadays the wine bottle tops that were made of lead have now all been changed to Aluminium.

After some searching I have found this company so have placed an order.

http://www.scalelink.co.uk/

It can be cut with scissors or a craft knife, bent to your requirements and painted.

We will see.....

2 Future Projects

Visited F&S Scale Models today and got two more projects for the workbench;

For a diorama, 6 Templar knights

Colour Chart Conversions (Citadel, Vallejo, Foundary)

Vallejo Model Colour Chart

http://www.vallejo.nl/gb/assets/s2dmain.html?http://www.vallejo.nl/gb/vallejo/modelcolorchart/index.html

Vallejo Game Colour (not Model Colour) vs Citadel

http://www.vallejo.nl/gb/assets/s2dmain.html?http://www.vallejo.nl/gb/vallejo/citadel/index.html

Foundry to Citadel
http://www.paintingclinic.com/clinic/guestarticles/citfoundrypaintchart.htm

Painting Guide: Victrix 54mm British Pt1

PAINTS: Vallejo Model Colours (V), Revell (R), Games Workshop (GW)

METHOD:

Complete 8 Soldiers in a session.

Undercoat:- As these are light model I have used Gunship Grey (R74) watered down.
Eyes:- Bleached Bone (GW)
Flesh1:- Base coat of Dark Flesh (GW)

Flesh 2: - Medium Flesh (V), Basic skin tone (V) Ogryn Flesh wash (do not cover the eyes).
Uniform Jacket 1:- Undercoat jacket with Scab Red (GW)

Hair: Scorched Brown and Bestial Brown highlights.

Painting Guide 1/16 French Cuirassier Part 2

The Horse can be seen in Part 1

Ensure paints are watered down.
Paints used are Games Workshop, Revell and Vallejo.

The figure has been built and Green stuff used to fill any areas that are not flush and to remove mold lines etc.

Undercoat - to try and bring out the colours of the uniform I used Gunship Grey (R74)
Eyes - Bleached Bone (GW), Black Pupil
Flesh 1 - Dark Flesh (GW), shape the eyes. Wash with Ogryn Flesh.
Hair 1 - Scorched brown (GW), blended in to Dark Flesh.
Flesh 2 - Medium Skintone (V) Wash with Ogryn Flesh
Flesh 3 - Dry Brush Basic Skintone (V), wash with Ogryn Flesh

Hair 2 - Higlight with Bleached Bone and wash with Devlan Mid.

Body:

Arms - Oxford Blue (V) base, watered down Medium Blue (V) then a Royal Blue (V) Highlight

Collar/Trim - Red (V) and Gold (V)

Breast Plate - Boltgun Metal (GW), highlight with Mithril Silver (GW)

Wash gold with Badab Black and Silver with Devlan Mud.

Saddle:
Undercoat, Gunship Grey (R74)

Fur 1 - Beige (R89)
Fur 2 - 50/50 Bleached Bone and Beige. Highlight Bleached Bone. Wash with Gryphonne Sepia, When dry highlight again with Bleached Bone.
fur 3 - Wash with Devlan Mud, highlight with bleached bone then mix to pure white.

So far;

Trim - Red (V)
Under Blanket1 - Beige (R)
Under Blanket2 - Oxford Blue (V) Highlight Royal Blue (V) Trim Astronomican Grey (GW) and White (V ) highlight.

Wash with Devlan Mud (GW)

Boots: Chaos Black (GW)
Stirrups: Boltgun Metal and Mithril Silver highlight (GW)

All the Kings Men 54mm Rules

http://allthekingsmentoysoldiers.com/ATKMRulesforDownload.pdf

Victrix 54mm Review

I have received my 54mm British Peninsular (Peninsular War) Infantry, 16 superb models with separate arms and heads so that you can make models with various poses. Models are very detailed and include Sergeant, infantry and drummer.

There is an accessory pack to be launched but I haven't seen it yet.

The sprue is good, not too much flashing to be removed, preparing them was quite easy. Have a look, I have compared them against a 28mm victrix.

Watch out for the Painting Guide following shortly.

The March of the Eagles

Free from Victrix

http://www.victrixlimited.com/download.php

Photography

I'm looking at improving the photography and will be doing some education sessions in the near future.



In the mean time I have ordered one of these;
£38 from Amazon.

Gaming Terrain

Having a permanent table top for gaming is always a problem, if you have a mat and use the GW modular terrain it could be the best solution. All of it is robust and can be put away.

Gaming Table or Not

If you don't have permanent space for a gaming table then the Terrain Mat is a great option.

Options are available for roads/rivers and different base colours also available. A green mat with 10-15% brown 3ftx5ft is £28.35. It can be rolled up and brought out and should fit on a standard size dining table. You could also add Games Workshop hills and woods for extra effect.

http://terrainmat.com/

Painting Guide 1/16 - Horse Part 1

This is a MiniArt 1/16 model.

Preparing the horse for gluing together took quite a while as the molds did not meet and needed to be heated in boiling water and straightened so they fitted better. Lots of Milliput and Green Stuff was used to fill gaps.

Ensure paints are watered down.
Paints used are Games Workshop, Revell and Vallejo.

Horse:


Undercoat - Chaos Black (GW)

Flesh 1- Very diluted Scorched Brown and Badab Black Wash

Flesh 2 - Paint on very diluted Dark Flesh, dry brush Dark Flesh, ensure there are darker areas. Wash with Badab Black all over. This helps to keep the darker areas dark.

Flesh 3 - Paint on very diluted Bestial brown, dry brush again and wash with Badab Black.

Mane/Tail - Wash with Badab Black. Highlight (Dry Brush) with 50/50 mix of Black Chaos/Astronomican Grey then add slightly more Astronomican Grey and highlight again. Wash with Badab Black to tone down if necessary.

Socks/Head Markings - Using Grey/Black mix bry brush around sock area and head markings, slowly bringing up to pure white.
Tack - I have painted Black in this case. Usually I'd go for a leather brown. Wash with badab Black. I will be looking for some black plastic or leather laces to make the reins with.

Painting Guide - Raiders of Middle Earth

The first twelve were painted in 2009 and used the following paints;

Undercoat - Chaos Black
Eyes - Bleached Bone (GW)
Flesh - Tallan Flesh (GW) Highlight Dwarf Flesh (GW) Diluted wash Ogryn Flesh
Cloak - Dark Green (R39) Highlights - Dark Angels Green (GW)
Uniform - Catachan Green (GW), Leather Brown (R)

I only have a completed picture >

The next twelve have Bubonic Brown uniforms;

Undercoat - Chaos Black
Cloak - Dark Green
Bottom Uniform - Catachan Green

My Workbench

Games Workshop Paint Blending Chart

http://www.paintingclinic.com/clinic/guestarticles/gwpaintblendingchart2.htm

Gandalf the White (Foot) - Metal

Painting Guide:

Ensure paints are watered down.
Paints used are Games Workshop and Revell Aqua Colour.

Undercoat - Gunship Grey (R74)
Eyes - Bleached Bone
Flesh (1) - Tallarn Flesh, shape the eyes.
Hair/Beard (1) - Dry brush Rotting Flesh
Cape (1) - Paint whole cape with beige (R89)
Hair (2) - Dry brush Bleached Bone
Flesh (2) - Highlight raised areas with Drwarf Flesh
Cape (2) - Dry brush Rotting Flesh then 50/50 with Bleached Bone leave to dry
Cape (3) - Dry brush very lightly to make the extremes very white. 50/50 Bleached Bone and White (R05)

This is how he looks now >>

Clothing:

Top Layer: - Paint with Rotten Flesh, dry brush highlight with 50/50 Rotten Flesh and Bleached Bone

Bottom Layer: - Paint with Bleached Bone, dry brush highlight with 50/50 Bleached bone and White (R05)

He now looks like this >>

Belt: Leather Brown (R)

Sword: Boltgun metal

Staff: Paint with Rotten Flesh and drybrush with Bleached Bone.

Washes: Ogryn Flesh wash to flesh areas, Devlan mud to staff, boots, and hair. Highlight again with Bleached Bone. Silver wash with Badab Black.

Based and varnished.

I had problems with ensuring the hand holding the staff actually stuck. It fell off several times during painting.